As a lash artist, one of the first things you should know is that lash mapping is everything! Accurately assessing your client’s eye and brow shape — and creating a flattering lash line that complements their features — not only results in beautiful lashes but also helps to improve client retention!
At Avari Beauty, we use our consultation time to learn about our client’s goals and lifestyles to assess the best solutions and services for their needs. Each client is highly individual, and a “one-size-fits-all” approach is not conducive for success — or client satisfaction. Each lash extension service should look and feel like it’s been created bespoke for the client. If applied correctly, high-quality lash extensions can make eyes look bigger and add definition to the face. However, even beautiful quality lash extensions can look odd and unnatural if they’re not skillfully mapped out to suit the client’s eye shape.
What Is Lash Mapping?
If you’re a newly minted lash tech who’s interested in lash mapping, you’re in the right place! Think of lash mapping as an architectural design of the eye — each placement of a lash will affect the overall lash line and look. Depending on the style of lash your client prefers, the ideal lash placement can differ greatly.
Lash mapping is a methodical approach to applying eyelash extensions and can help you to determine the perfect texture and density of lash for your client’s eye shape. No two clients or their lash maps are the same. As with anything, practice makes perfect. Once you’ve achieved a lash look your client loves, you can save their lash map to streamline your appointments and create stunning results every time!
Lash Mapping: The Initial Appointment
Most lash artists who practice lash mapping use the initial appointment with a client to determine the most effective lash placement for their needs. It’s crucial that you note the arch of your client’s eyebrow, the center of their pupil, and the inner and outer edges of their iris. This will give you a guide that you can follow to begin to create your client’s desired lash look.
It’s important to remember that no two eyes are exactly the same, and facial asymmetry is natural. This is why it’s vital to consider your client’s natural eye shape and placement, as applying lashes incorrectly can accentuate differences and make the eyes appear disproportional. The client’s eyebrow is a useful aspect of the face for determining the length of lash extensions you should use.
Before beginning your lash service, be sure to ask your client what lash look they prefer, for example, natural, doll eye, cat eye, etc. Your final lash mapping for the client will likely depend on their desired look. You should also examine their lash’s natural health. Strong natural lashes can take almost any lash look without damage, but if your client’s lashes are weak or sparse, it’s important to advise them on the least damaging approach to wearing extensions.
Lash Mapping: Important Considerations
As a new lash artist, you may be tempted to steer away from shorter lash extensions — everyone wants long, luscious lashes, right? This is where lash mapping can help you determine the best lash placement and the ideal length. For example, shorter lashes are usually more suited to the eye’s inner corner — for client comfort reasons and because they can help to create an optical illusion and open the eyes up. Don’t be afraid of mixing up lash extension lengths; it’s how you’ll achieve the most bespoke and beautiful result.
When first starting, many lash artists stick to the tried and true method of moving along the client’s lashline, applying lashes from the shortest to the longest. This is a safe enough method for some eye shapes; however, on other eye shapes, it can have the opposite effect — causing a droopy and tired look. As we stated above, there is no one-size-fits-all method. As lash artists, we have a duty to advise our clients based on our best knowledge and experience.
Although the client’s desired results should be paramount, it’s also important to be prepared to share your own professional opinion. In some instances, the style the client requests may not be the best one to complement her natural features — although sometimes challenging to discuss, these moments can create great opportunities to build client trust. If you truly believe that you client wouldn't receive a great result from what they're asking for, explain your reasoning and suggest an alternative. Most clients will appreciate your honesty and knowledge.
Lash Mapping: The Basics
Your client’s natural lash quality and lash line will ultimately dictate your lash map. For instance, if they have fine or damaged lashes, applying 13mm length extensions could weaken them even further. In addition, the lash diameter should be taken into consideration to ensure the most natural result.
Here are some general lash mapping guidelines to follow when you first start out:
Round eyes: Clients with round eyes can benefit from adding length to the outer edges to create the illusion of a longer cat-eye effect.
Almond eyes: Almond eyes tend to look great in most lash styles. For an ultra-natural effect, the longest lashes can be applied around two-thirds along the lash line before shortening slightly at the outer corners.
Close-set eyes: Clients with close-set eyes have inner-corners that sit closer to their noses. You can accentuate the outer-corners with length or start just underneath the arch of the brow to balance this.
Wide-set eyes: You can balance wideset eyes by applying longers lash extensions to the middle of the eye.
Of course, this is a very general guide that should be considered, among other factors such as the result your client wants to achieve and what you feel creates the most satisfactory results.
Pro tip: Remember to graduate the lash lengths as you move from one section to another. If you don’t gradually alternate the lash length, you may create an uneven or stark finish that looks unnatural.
Remember, lashing is an art. It takes time and experience to understand your client’s needs and create beautiful lashes. Lash mapping is just one tool you can use to help prep yourself for a successful client appointment. If you want more pro-tips and lash tech content, remember to follow us on Instagram!